Seven points for grape spring management

Strengthen the spring management of grapes, can promote the growth and development of new shoots, significantly increase the number of fruit branches and the rate of results, to ensure high yield and stable production of grapes.

First, spring cut shelves

When the soil temperature of the root layer of the grape is stable at about 12°C, the root system starts to move and the plants are unearthed when the sap flows gradually. After unearthing, cut old, dead, sick and other serious damaged branches. When it is on the shelves, the branches and branches should be distributed evenly, with strong vines, large vines, and long vines, and weak, small, and short branches. To be unearthed, with cuttings, with the shelves, the latest at the bud before germination, so as not to damage the buds.

Second, fertilization irrigation

In the budding period of the grapes, when the flower buds of the grape plants continue to differentiate and the shoots begin to thrive, a large amount of nutrients is needed. The water should be promptly given to the vineyards and the nitrogen fertilizer should be applied quickly. Conditional farmers should timely flood the entire garden to ensure that the grape plants are budding. For the garden where no basal fertilization was applied in the autumn of last year, supplements may be applied from early March to early April. Basal fertilizer is mainly composed of manure, chicken manure, and earth miscellaneous manure, and is properly mixed with urea. The amount of use depends on the age of the tree and the load. Generally, for every 50 kg of berry produced, 100 to 150 kg of high-quality farmyard manure, 0.35 to 0.50 kg of urea, 0.50 to 1.20 kg of superphosphate, 0.15 kg of potassium sulfate, and 3.5:1 ratio of soil to fertilizer are uniformly applied. Fertilization method: ditch application or acupuncture, depth 40 ~ 60 cm; width and diameter of the hole to determine the amount of fertilizer.

Third, film insulation

Covering the mulching film to increase the ground temperature can keep the soil moisture, reduce pests and diseases, and create good conditions for grape blooming and fruit setting.

Fourth, wipe buds in addition to Meng

Winter buds left after the winter cuts of grape plants usually have 70% to 80% germination, resulting in more germination. Therefore, reasonable sprouting should be performed after grape sprouts in spring. Too many buds will result in waste of nutrients and competition, which is not conducive to fruiting. Leaving the buds too low will make them prosperous and increase fruit and fruit. When one of the resulting mother shoots had multiple buds sprouting, one bud was left every 15 to 20 centimeters, and each bud left one new shoot, leaving 2 to 5 new shoots for each result, and the rest were wiped from the base. When the buds are applied, they are also wiped off with antherosclerotic buds or weak shoots.

Fifth, fixed tip binding

The preserved shoots left 5 leaves above the spikes before flowering topping, leaving 7 to 8 leaves topping at the shoots without spikes. Auxiliary shoots after the pinching only left the top 1 ~ 2 axillary shoots, leaving 2 leaves repeatedly picked up the heart, the rest of the auxiliary tip all erased. At the same time, according to the growth of dendrite timely vines.

Sixth, ear treatment

In order to ensure the fruit setting rate, it is usually necessary to remove 1/4 to 1/5 of the tip of the plant; spray 0.3% boron fertilizer plus 0.3% to 0.4% urea solution. Five days after flowering, artificial granules are made and then bagged.

VII. Pest Control

Before germination of grape buds, pests and diseases such as brown shaft blight, gray mold, black pox, white rot, downy mildew, and grape leaf spot were prevented. The whole branches were dried 10 to 15 days and sprayed 5 times. Baume degree lime sulfur plus 0.3% sodium pentachlorophenol solution, or 68% bacteria rust enemy wettable powder 0.2% to 0.33% solution, or 1% to 1.25% solution of solibar, even spray 2~3 The effect is excellent.

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